Sep 15, 2011

Catemaco - Dia de Independencia

Updated from 16 September 2006

Independence Day is one of the more important holidays across all of  Mexico.

In beautiful downtown Catemaco, the degree of the celebration is totally related to the whim of the mayor in power for his 3 year elected term. Usually the first year of the term produces a plethora of activities and decorations. By the third year there is usually barely a whim of the party atmosphere of the first one or two years.

This is the first year in office of all the Los Tuxtlas mayors. And they are going ape shit spending the little money that they do have on bangles, baubles and fireworks.

I enjoy it while it lasts.


On the morning of September 10, 1810, Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, a 57 year old priest from an old family of criollos (Mexican-born Spaniards) begun to harangue his parishioners in the small town of Dolores in the state of Guanajuato, Mexico, about the state of affairs in Spain’s colony of New Spain. 

He ended his sermon with “Viva the Virgin of Guadalupe and Death to the Gachupines (Spaniards in Mexico)”, now famous as the “Grito de Dolores“. The phrase is a pun in Spanish. It can mean both “The Shout from the Town of Dolores,” and “The Cry of Pain,” referring to the pain that Spain’s rule caused Mexico.

Thus began the bloodbath of Mexico’s revolt against Spain, ending almost 10 years later on February 24, 1821, when Agustin Iturbide (Spanish defense) and Vicente Guerrero (Mexican offense) joined in the Plan de Iguala to reject Spanish colonialism. On 24 August 1821, Iturbide and Spanish Viceroy Juan de O’Donojú signed the Treaty of Córdoba in Córdoba, Veracruz, ratifiying the Plan de Iguala and thus confirming Mexico’s independence.

After a year’s haggling, on July 21, 1822 the criollo Iturbide was declared the first emperor of Mexico as Agustin the First. He lasted till March 19, 1823, when in a continuation of the war of independence, former coalition partners warred again him, dethroned him and established the interim triumvirate headed by Pedro Celestino Negrete, with Nicolás Bravo and Guadalupe Victoria.

On October 4, 1824 the Constitution of the United Mexican States was promulgated, establishing a federal government. On October 10, 1824, General General Guadalupe Victoria assumed control of the executive authority, and became the first Mexican president to repeat the “Grito de Dolores“.

Over the years, Miguel Hidalgo’s “Death to the Gapuchines” battle cry was shelved and the more traditional “Viva the Heros of the Nation!”, “Viva the Republic!, and “Viva Mexico!”, etc. were substituted.

Another substitution was the change of the date when the “Grito” is delivered, from September 16 to the previous night of September 15, originally instituted to accommodate the birthday of the then Mexican dictator Porfirio Diaz.

201 years later, the Mexican president, and every mayor in every community in Mexico, including beautiful downtown Catemaco, Veracruz delivers the “Grito” to his patriotic compatriots, accompanied by thousands of  VIVA, VIVA, VIVA MEXICO.

The next morning things cool down a bit, and the traditional parades begin, more or less in line with the US July 4th events, only missing the baton twirlers.



Sep 6, 2011

Catemaco September 2011


Be thankful, I don´t specialize on Veracruz and Mexico News! The local pollyannas would really freak out!

The state news is grim. 10 were killed in 3 separate incidents on Monday. By now the state press almost ignores them. Twitterers of course go ape, especially now that the local governor jailed two for the equivalent of shouting fire in a casino.  Meanwhile the Mexican congress is debating a law which would make it illegal to insult politicians.

And now for the Catemaco weather:
The first of  45 or so cold fronts hit this morning. Lovely, much needed rain! It got so cold, I actually wore a shirt in the house during the day!

And now to the Catemaco news desk:
The long neglected 100 year old clock tower was repaired with functioning clocks and a sound system. Of  course, if you decide to sleep anywhere near the center of town, you will be inspired by the Mexican national anthem followed by church bells at 6 am.

Catemaco is still in the running to become one of the "pueblos magicos" which some pendejo bureaucrat now has decided to rename "Acuarelas Túristicas" (tourist watercolors). Hopefully, that will be after the long promised and more often announced 50 million pesos arrive to fix the sewage running down the streets.

The mayor has spread new gravel across most of the local country roads. It is really a great time to haunt the mountain nooks of Catemaco. Dried up streams are now running wild, more shades of green than fit on any palette and incredible vistas around every corner.

As usual  some "asnos" blocked the road south from here followed the next day by a major washout of a culvert bridge that hasn't been fully repaired since last year. Check locally, before heading south. Unfortunatey there are no Twitterers updating news of the road, and, of course the federal and state agencies are too inept.

There is another news item, but I am too embarrassed to publish it here, so go there.

And on the Catemaco reading desk:
A young woman went partying in Catemaco and wrote about in Spanish
http://www.lacasarosacatemaco.com/reportajeCatemacoNights.html

Another one took a good look around and wrote about it in German
http://vallartina.wordpress.com/2011/09/05/laguna-encantada-%E2%80%93-der-see-der-hexer/

And, unbelievably, one of France's best newspapers published the farce of some imported foot stompers from Mexico City as "the ritual dances of Catemaco"
http://www.lemonde.fr/voyage/video/2011/08/29/les-danses-rituelles-de-catemaco_1563586_3546.html

The European interest may have something to with the skyrocketing (percentage wise)  number of  mostly European tourists flying into Veracruz City. (the peso is dirt cheap when valued against the Euro).

Update
The do not insult your legislator law was tabled supposedly because of social network opposition





Sep 4, 2011

La Victoria, Catemaco


La Victoria is the third largest town in the Catemaco county, and features a bucolic atmosphere without tourists. Curiously the town may be related to a British monarch.

60+ photos, maps and a few hundred words.

Aug 29, 2011

Catemaco Reads

There is a new kid on the block of English news in Mexico. Edited by a Dutchman and describing itself a delivering "Independent News from the Heart of the Americas",
The Voice of Mexico recently began publication as an online only service.

Here are a few more :
Inside Mexico - monthly

A good daily news aggregator is the:
and a thoughful weekly:
and almost English daily business commentary from


In addition there are hundreds of blogs, mostly geared more towards entertainment than news.
I recommend a feed of mostly news blogs I established for my personal reading:

More personal blogs can be found at 




Aug 28, 2011

Catemaco Gay


A day ago or so the Mexican presbyterians disavowed their association with the US presbyterians because of gay concerns.
Who cares?. Actually I do not know if there are any presbis in Catemaco.

What is more pertinent is that Mexico City came out of the closet and declared itself gay friendly a few months ago.

Catemaco, too, should raise its banner and declare itself  gay friendly.

Gays, speaking generally, have more than the average disposable income, enjoy natural wonders, cultural activities and nooks and crannies.

Catemaco qualifies, and could use the business.

What's missing is a boutique hotel declaring itself gay friendly. Actually what's missing is a boutique hotel.

Meanwhile, most of the raunchy cantinas along the federal highway crossing Catemaco serve transvestites as part of their offering.

Catemaco qualifies as a gay destination and should seriously consider promoting itself  as such.




Aug 19, 2011

Catemaco Orphanage


Before I settled in Catemaco I had gotten a whiff that there might be an orphanage here. It took me a few months until I found it. I had previous experience supporting children in the Far East with "Catholic Relief Services" and damaging some of them with another affiliation and I was looking to find a place to put my 2 cents.

In 1995, a religious señora donated one hectare, (2.5 acres) on the outskirts of Catemaco to a charitable agency to establish a home for children without homes.

The receiving agency was the brothers of the Order of Mercy, a catholic monk organization founded in 1218, http://orderofmercy.org/. The Order had begun operations in Mexico City in 1984 and now houses several hundred children there.

A holding facility, locally called "Casa Hogar", with 6 rooms and a supervisor quarter were constructed on the large terrain in Catemaco, a few kids were imported, and then the continuity of the project died.

The monastic order has been trying to enlarge the facility to accomodate more than 100 children, primarily from Los Tuxtlas , BUT, because of changing land values in the last 10 years, survivors of the original donor have been fighting for posession of the property.

For the last 9 years, as far as I know, my Popoluca and I have been the only local private presence supporting the children with electric and electronic equipment, school supplies, food, etc.

In a small way they are supported by the local catholic church organization, and of course by their substantially larger Mexico City Order . According to the "father" supervising the Casa, that support is "negligible".

Originally  I had thought that these childrens were all orphans. Most are not. Instead they were collected from damaging environments, such as child abusers and  violent parents.

I have followed some of  them for the past 9 years and am happy to see some achieve university status.

Meanwhile there is a group of children that need support, and yes, they are tax deductible!

Casa Hogar Villa Nolasco, AC

Photo: Taken in 2005. Usually when I am building something, I invite the kids to work for a stipend, that time, cleaning my beach.