Catemaco STUPID

The coastal highway #180 from the US border to the south of Mexico was begun in the early 1920's. By the 1960's most of it was paved and bridged.

In 2011 you have to stand on your head to find out if the road is passable. There is NO functional system in place to advise motorists. The federal toll roads have an excellent system supported by a web page, Facebook and Twitter. Probably because they also charge a fortune to cross over their facilities.

The federal free roads might as well be in the African Sahara. Supposedly you can call the federal highway police for information. Good luck, to both get connected or to receive sensible advice.

At present the south of Los Tuxtlas is not accessible or passable, or maybe it is. As usual, a culvert crossing collapsed, and a makeshift bridge, unrepaired since last year's storms, was flooded again.

Usually this stuff gets repaired within a day or three or a week, until the next road gets washed out.

Catemaco has enough problems attracting north to south tourism. If this crap of road destruction and failure to inform continues, nobody in their right mind will venture on the already torturous trek through Los Tuxtlas, and instead will choose to bypass Catemaco on the toll road.

I wish someone would stick a sock in the mouth of the Veracruz governor who keeps bragging about tourism being the solution to Veracruz's problems without maintaining the totally vital and only north south coastal highway.

Typical repair crew

Photo: http://www.informantesenred.com/fuertes-lluvias-dejan-estragos-en-catemaco/

DO NOT PASS GO in Catemaco

At least for the next 3 days.

Assorted highways will be blocked by protesters.

Blocking highways is a federal crime in Mexico. The only ones arrested for it, that I have read about, are impoverished Indians demanding better government services. The rest, ranging from the current national transportation unions to locals demanding handouts apparently are excluded from the law.

As if Mexico does not have enough problems, you can figure at least one or 2 days per month that a highway will be closed wherever you are going. Usually it is only for a few hours, but sometimes it will take days and the Mexican army to clear the road. Often the blockers will allow passage after paying an appropriate contribution to their cause.

The current fave in Veracruz is truck and bus drivers protesting against police abuses and the cost of fuel.

Shucks, what will they think of next?

Update: WHAT A MESS!
http://www.veracruzanos.info/2011/06/ultimos-reportes-carreteros/  Today's mess.
A few hours ago the usual jerks in Covarrubias closed the bridge. And I have friends on the road arriving from Chiapas.

Catemaco Bound

This is just about the death knell for Texas border to Veracruz and beyond  vehicular tourist traffic.
http://www.washingtonpost.com/world/driving-mexicos-highway-of-death/2011/04/21/AFpdA7KE_story.html

The only good thing may be that those driving up from the south will decide to stay a year or so until that mess clears up.

Ironically, I think I've noticed a healthy upsurge of foreign tourists to Catemaco this winter season. Most arrive via Mexican tour buses, presumably after having flown to Veracruz or Mexico City. Last month, the Veracruz airport showed a significant 21% jump in foreign arrivals. I wish there were better statistics available such as rental car usage, toll road usage, hotel occcupancy, etc.

What the government provides is blown out of someone's nose. I missed  most of the 30 thousand arrivals for the non-brujo weekend and am now counting the supposed 60 thousand semana santa visitors,  half of whom will probably take the shortcut to the San Andrès beaches. Of course there is no clicker lying on that road  that might provide a good indicator.

The major very prominent new presence in the Catemaco area is cops. They are all over the place. Small ones, big ones, skinny ones and fat ones, even one on small heels, most dressed in full black on black battle gear and riding around on the back of pickups and sucking up the current extreme temperatures.

That someone buy them all a nice cold Coca Corona.

Catemaco Topes

After a few hundred posts mostly extolling Catemaco, I have a hard time to add something new. Here is something:

The carretera running through Catemaco has the absolutely best topes (speedbumps) in southern Veracruz. They are low, and broad enough, to not bust your oilpan in case you stop too sharp to cross one. They are easily passed over at 20 mph. I would add vibrators to make them more exciting, and advertise them nationally: "Come to Catemaco - Enjoy our Speedbumps".

So unfortunately my "bodyguard" drove me to Xalapa yesterday. Usually I drive, so this gave me a chance to enjoy the countryside, and I started counting topes, until I went ooh, ahh, because the suspension killer in El Tropico had been leveled. So I lost count to tell you how many miserable topes there are now between Catemaco and Paso del Toro (about 20 miles outside of VC city).

But hurrah, the construction nightmare at Paso del Toro now has a picture opportunity. The overpass to the Veracruz libramiento (bypass) is now open. But there remain a few unannounced killer topes on that stretch of road.

After that it was all clear to Xalapa, and I made a pit stop at my favorite Cardel restaurant "La Bamba", (about 1/4 mile on the Cardel main drag, entering it instead of the Cardel bypass). I highly recommend it, which I almost never do for Catemaco restaurants.

Talking about Catemaco: A chef that built a rep in San Andres has now moved to the Playa Cristal restaurant on the Malecon. That promises to be exciting.

As for excitement, the recent shootout in Catemaco obliterated all of the good press the city had been generating the last few months. On a day when about 30 others were killed in Mexico, that particular mickey mouse event, without any reported deaths,  made 100s of national and a few international headlines because of its association with Catemaco and its brujo mystique.

I put together a page for Spanish readers, which is still in draft, because I'm not sure that the story has an end. La Balacera de Catemaco, 17 marzo 2011.

We drove home at night, which I absolutely do not advise anyone unfamiliar with the local roads to do. Traffic as usual was light, and the most prominent  feature were those guys dressed in black, carrying modified M16's on virtually every intersection.  Fortunately none stopped us, driving a very large black SUV, loaded to the ceiling with Xalapa purchases. Must have been my pleasant smile.

Catemaco River Boat

A hundred years ago, one of the few ways to get to Catemaco, was by a paddle steamer from Alvarado up the San Juan River to about 30 km west of San Andres Tuxtla. From there, I imagine, horse drawn transportation  provided connection to the city. Almost nothing is known about that segment of local history.

Naturally a gringo promoted the trip. Maybe he owned a local horse trailer park.

You can also read: 

How to get to Catemaco 

PS - the photo is from 1903 posted by AguaPasada

The Alvarado Bridge

Almost half way between Veracruz City and Catemaco lies the Illustrous, Generous and Heroic municipality and port of Alvarado, about the size of Catemaco, with app 49 thousand inhabitants. The city received all its titles because of its resistance to the U.S. invasion of 1846.

Located at the mouth of the Papaloapan River and surrounding lagoons, the city was a major bottleneck for north to south travelers in Veracruz. until 1964 when the existent bridge was dedicated. I crossed the 2 lane bridge the first time in 1966 and admired the hulks of the abandoned ferries resting around the 1850 feet long bridge. When I returned thirtyfive years later, they were still resting.

Since then the bridge has been plagued with maintenance problems and is frequently limited to one way traffic and occasionally closed over night. In 2006 a bus managed to fall off the bridge and kill 6 passengers.

The bridge is managed by CAPUFE, the federal Mexican toll road and bridges agency which has created a miniature town to operate 3 measly toll gates.  Replacement value of the bridge is 247 million pesos and I think that may be coming due within a few years, unless they let the bridge fall in the river like many other bridges in southern Veracruz.

The bridge is a boon for Alvarado which receives almost 9 million pesos annually from CAPUFE for being on county property. Users of the bridge pay 19 pesos for cars and 32 pesos and up for trucks. In 2009 more than 1.8 million vehicles crossed the bridge, about 5000 per day.

The bridge is the primary entrance to Los Tuxtlas. Other entries from the north south toll road at Cosamaloapan, Isla and Acayucan also contribute a minor share. Thus the number of users of the bridge is significant in understanding tourism in Catemaco.

The press parrots politicians claiming Los Tuxtlas to be the second or third most visited area in Veracruz, and throw around figures ranging from half to a million annual visitors, and for years I wondered why Los Tuxtlas was not attracting more outside touristic development.

I recently researched the Alvarado bridge in depth with the limited resources the Mexican government provides on the internet. I come up with a maximum of 500 thousand very seasonal visitors per year. No wonder Howard Johnson never learned to spell Catemaco.

You can see my spreadheet here (in Spanish)

The Corn Trail from Catemaco to Soteapan

There is almost no functional access to the Sierra Santa Marta from Catemaco. The Brecha del Maiz, corn trail, is supposed to fix that.

Still under construction after 4 years, the road was heavily damaged by the weather events of late 2010. Right now the road is passable.

I recommend the trip for any adventurous soul in Catemaco who wants to see and know more about an area of Los Tuxtlas that holds most of its indigenous history, is totally impoverished, out of the mainstream, and ignored by Veracruz and Mexican politicians.

Travel the Corn Trail

Catemaco Roads

Caution: reading this blog entry is dangerous to the mental health of Tepetapan residents.
I'm getting lots of inquiries about road conditions in around Catemaco and southern Veracruz.

As of today "you can´t get there from here" unless driving in from the south.
Stretches of road around Lerdo de Tejado are under up to 3 feet of water. Buses are still passing, and if your car does not float, truck drivers will move you forward for 900 pesos. The access roads from the toll road at Isla and Cosomaloapan are totally flooded and bridges are destroyed.
Update: 12:55 10/11 - The water in Lerdo is down to 2 feet or less, and a friend just made it in a VW.

But, the tollroad from Veracruz to Villa Hermosa is still open, although that city could be flooding any hour, like the area around Minatitlan did a few days ago. So I guess we'll see you on the way back or next year.
Update: 12:55 10/11 - The rivers are descending!

There unfortunately is no national service to get road information. Status of federal toll roads and bridges can be gotten by dialing 074 in Mexico.

Federal highways have a website, which I know is NOT completely accurate about Veracruz.
http://dgcc.sct.gob.mx/index.php?id=807

Veracruz state highways have no information system.
Photo from El Universal.

Update: I just found a quick way to check road conditions. Check the "Ticketbus" bus schedule for two cities on your route. If they show service, you know the buses are rolling, if not, then you'll have your answer.

Catemaco road blocks

Mexico is so proud of advertising its archaeological history, culinary marvels, and magnificent scenery while forgetting to advertise  the opportunity to meet some "real" Mexican people.

Frequently that opportunity arrives, while parked on a Mexican highway while the road is blocked.

Fortunately Catemaco is only rarely blessed with road blockages so common throughout Mexico. And also fortunately, few gringo and similar travelers are on the road this time of year. Mexican drivers apparently have the patience to tolerate these annoying delays 365 days a year.

Here is what you can expect:

Flood blockages - Northeast Mexico was a flooded nightmare until recently, but now it looks like the southeastern Mexican rivers will be going on a rampage. In the Catemaco area usually only the Isla to Santiago road floods once every 3-4 years.

Washouts - you can expect them anywhere in mountainous terrain. The Sierra de Los Tuxtlas dirt roads are now beginning to be seriously affected, and the paved roads usually have a few disappeared bridges after major storms..

Military - most of these regular roadblocks are harmless, but they are annoying, unproductive and insulting. Do not drive black SUVs, do have a front license plate, and forget your camera unless you want to stare down the barrel of an M16. You'll probably hit one or 2 or 5 in every state.

Police - these are spontaneous roadblocks either perpetrated by officers actively searching for criminals or for adjustments in their payscale. I am reading more and more about speed traps popping up mostly in the north.

Accidents - since many Mexican roads have no curbs, any sort of accident can cost you a few hours, because there is no way to drive around them.

Political - these roadblocks are the curse of  Veracruz. Every major road in Veracruz has been blocked for hours at least once and often more times within the last few months because "You fill in the blank". Usually these blocks happen because the government did not do what was promised, and the locals got upset about  "whatever", or are protesting against the latest road kill.

Health - usually everyone blows by the so called "sanitary" (agricultural) inspection stations. Lately though, these have been reactivated because of fears of the spread of dengue fever. Count one for each state.

Topes - I doubt that these speed bumps were a Mexican invention, but apparently they are now popping up in mostly southern states in the US. At last count there were 88 of these (/&%$9) between Paso del Toro and Catemaco. They are promoted by the Mexican government (which supposedly controls federal highways) to improve the livelihood of talleres (auto repair stations) and chiropractors.

Every and each one of these stops will give you a chance to interact with fellow travelers, (primarily Mexicans).  And you will be amazed at the international sign language exchanged by travelers in their comments about the Mexican road system.

Catemaco Trip Log

I found this log in the largest exchange library in southern Mexico (without the Yucatan), at the Tepetapan Trailer Park in beautiful outside Catemaco.

The mileage is correct, but the facts are a little dated, nevertheless the log will help you to enjoy the few hours to get here from Veracruz.

click to enlarge

Catemaco Taxis

Beautiful downtown Catemaco is blessed with a cornucopia of cheap taxis. Most trips around town cost 15 pesos, and you can catch one within a minute on almost any street.

Until last year the county of Catemaco had 80 taxis registered, 64 of which were stationed in Catemaco City.
Starting late last year the wonderful Veracruz government issued another 44 taxi licenses for Catemaco.

Most of the drivers of taxis do not own them, because they cannot afford the licenses. Instead, the licenses are owned by well off people and political hacks. By example, the area representative in the Veracruz legislature allegedly owns 20 taxi licenses in Los Tuxtlas.

A license costs approximately 40 thousand pesos. In addition, bribes and tips averaging maybe 150 thousand pesos are collected by the bureaucrats involved.

Apparently all of the state received new taxi licenses, with Veracruz City receiving more than 1000. I would estimate that statewide 10,000 licenses were issued.

Now here is the math:
10 thousand times 150 thousand  pesos (average bribes) equals 150,000,000 pesos, that is 12 million US.

The local taxi drivers who used to earn 150 to 200 pesos for a shift are now lucky to make 100 pesos. And they are very sympathetic with the bureaucrats involved who support the current Veracruz governor who will need zillions of pesos for his upcoming presidential campaign.

So, park your car! Take a taxi! Support Veracruz democracy!

Catemaco License

I'm becoming more Mexican every day. A friendly officer at a recent police stop away from beautiful downtown Catemaco reminded me that my license was about to expire. So one day I set off to battle the fiercesome Mexican bureaucrcy.

Surprise! 30 minutes later, not including 90 minutes of playing musical chairs at Hacienda (the Federal cash register), I walked out  with a 3 year permit for 746 pesos. That's a lot of pesos!

Other requirements were originals plus copies of passport, FM2 visa, proof of residency. The doctor was not around, so no eye test was administered, which I would have flunked.

The written exam was 12 or so computerized questions  about traffic signs and general driving, which I often guessed at, especially the one about which side should you drive on in a narrow street with cars parked on both sides? The driving test was administered by a traffic police officer in his  half ton pickup truck and involved driving around the block once.

Catemaco to the Yucatan

With haunts of the "south will rise again" southern Veracruz sugar cane farmers have successfully cut the only roads leading from the rest of Mexico to the Yucatan. After first blocking the bridge leading from Catemaco south to Acayucan/Villahermosa, they have now also blocked the cuoata (toll road) south of Acayucan.

This is a political gambit involving the payment of price supports to sugar mills. It is also a pain in the butt for anyone traveling these highways. Usually these common blockages last only a few hours, until the Veracruz governor sends in some sugar coated promises.

We recently round tripped the Yucatan from Catemaco to Villahermosa, Campeche, Merida, Tulum and Chetumal/Belize. Once you get the hell out of Veracruz, the roads are surprisingly good, only marred by long stretches of new road construction. Highways are very well marked and frequently give you a choice of different mileages to the next city. Speed controls are almost non existant and we often puffed along at 100 miles per hour.

Once out of the majorcities, you need to be a mind reader to know which turn to take. We proudly got lost trying to find Celestun, leaving Merida, short cutting from Chichen Itza and entering Tulum from the inland side. The worst nightmare was trying to leave downtown Chetumal.

All in all, we had a wonderful trip and the only pertinent advise is to NEVER ask a Mexican pedestrian for directions. Their usual sense of courtesy does not allow admitting they don´t know and instead they will fabricate some twists and turns to keep you happy. This is especially true in rural areas where the concept of roads is frequently presumed to include horse trails.

My Popoluca taught me the most pertinent trick. Hire a taxi to lead you where you are going! It works.
Photo: "My historic ruins" of Uxmal

Catemaco Update 2 of 2

One of my favorite foolish friends in Catemaco, allowed his wife to crash her car against another without insurance 7 months ago. On Sunday morning, 7 months later, the local process servers tried to arrest her.

My foolish friend naturally arranged to pay the complainant the 16000 pesos damages.

 

Current cost apart from 16000 pesos damages:

15000 pesos bribes, including a 6000 peso bond for the damages already paid.

And it is not finished. And yes, he now has insurance!

Catemaco Submarines

A new transportation route has finally opened for the access starved neighborhood of Catemaco and Los Tuxtlas. After being saddled with second class roads connecting to major cities, an air field preserved as a cow pasture and a port on the edge of destruction, relief seems to be arriving from Colombia.

Apparently Colombian drug lords are mass producing submarines for shipping their merchandise along the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, while hugging the coast lines. At present the scheduled itineraries include the Yucatan, from where it is just a short snorkel to Catemaco, and then the Texas coast. Presumably these vessels costing around a million dollars US each will be able to accomodate passengers on their return trip.

Possibly to accomodate this future traffic or at least the stampede of sail boaters from the Texas and Florida gulf coast intent on anchoring in Veracruz, the Governor today announced the building of a marina in the port of Veracruz as part of the nautical ladder supposedly extending to Belize. Catemaco, (that is La Barra) must be next on the list.

And I can't wait for a travel agency to offer submarine trips from Galveston or even Miami to Catemaco. What a way to see the Gulf of Mexico!
Photo: Mexican spoil sports


For more information check out Mexidata.info, one of the finer low key sources for Mexico insights.

Giant map of Catemaco

See more maps here

Catemaco Roads

Catemaco is in the middle of nowhere.

22 hours from the border, 8 hours from Mexico City, 4 hours from Veracruz City. So a decision to vacation in Catemaco should obligate the local tourist industry to maximize its welcome of visitors and provide for their comfort. At present, the majority of visitors to Catemaco are tour bus day trippers, who combine a Catemaco stop with other stops, usually spend less than a day here, and have created a thriving public bathroom industry and sanitation department.

Catemaco and Los Tuxtlas are targeted by the Veracruz state government as a major tourism destination and, almost daily, a mention is made about one road or another that is being built, planned, repaired or paved. But tourists, both foreign and national, using their own cars, or dependent on bus transportation, are insulted by the deplorable lack or condition of access roads to Catemaco and Los Tuxtlas.

Only very adventurous tourists will leave the main highway, Mex 180, to enjoy the splendor of so many of the natural wonders of Los Tuxtlas which should result in a stay of several days in the region. Instead, after one night, most tourists drive north or south to spend their money in more accessible locations.

These reflections represent my experience of driving these roads since 2002, and represent data as of August 2006. Most roads are under the jurisdiction of SECOM, the Veracruz Department of Transportation. Ironically a former mayor of Catemaco unfortunately heads a large branch of that Department

MEX 180 - Mexican federal highway.

This road runs from the US border at Brownsville to Cancun and has done so for more than 50 years. The road was probably in better condition 50 years ago than it is now. The section from Veracruz to Catemaco is a consistent nightmare of pot holes, more than 50 topes, some of which are unmarked monsters, road repairs, washouts, and road obstructions. At any one time, some section is being painted black, which is the local equivalent of paving, and usually lasts less than a year. The section from Catemaco to Minatitlan/Coatzacoalcos is in similar condition.

Access to the Cuota - Toll Road near Catemaco.

The toll road that stretches from La Tinaja to near Villahermosa, aside from being outrageously expensive, is usually in good repair, but also prone to lack of maintenance, especially around the Minatitlan area. Access to Catemaco is via 2 exits.

a) MEX 179 near Isla to Santiago Tuxtla and then MEX 180 to Catemaco. This road at present is fair, after being a nightmare for more than 2 years.

b) A turnoff at Acayucan, then through terribly marked city roads to MEX 180. In one of those famous 5 year development plans for Los Tuxtlas, another access road from near Covarrubias to the Cuota was proposed but never pursued.

The San Martin Circuit Road and coastal highway,

This is a loop road leaving Mex 180 at El Tropico, passing along the Gulf via Montepio, then returning to 180 near Catemaco.

a) Section of Catemaco to Montepio:

The deplorable dirt road in place for more than 20 years, and probably promised to be paved for almost as long, was finally completed in 2007, includings outrageous topes near Sontecomapan, and a heavy collection of pot holes from Catemaco to Sontecomapan. Biologists from the UNAM Biological Station demanded that the section of road passing through their reserve be constructed in a natural manner. The result is probably the worst kilometer of constructed road in the world. Even the Aztecs built better roads from stone.

b) Section of Montepio to El Tropico:

This former dune & dirt trail with frightening river crossings is now completely paved and bridged. Expect potholes and lots of topes.

Eyipantla waterfall.

The road runs from Mex 180 at Sihuapan, near San Andrés Tuxtla, to Eypantla and continues to Covarrubias. The touristically important section to the waterfall, (4.5 km), is recently paved (2007).

Santiago Tuxtla to Tres Zapotes.

Turning from Mex 180 to MEX 179 at Santiago Tuxtla and then proceeding to unmarked Dos Caminos is ok. The touristically important section from the turnoff at Dos Caminos to Tres Zapotes (13.5 km) is another one of those once paved, but not maintained nightmares. It also is on the long promised list of roads to be repaired. Tres Zapotes holds an important Olmec museum and used to have a well attended equinox celebration.

The Laguna Catemaco circumference road

Unfortunately at present this road along the laguna is incomplete, but circumnavigation of the Laguna is only possible via La Magdalena and Barossa, turning a 50 kilometer trip into a 100 kilometer odyssey.

From Catemaco to Tebanca the road is paved, but heavily potholed in sections. From there, a badly eroded dirt road subject to flooding runs to the turnoff to Las Margaritas. From the turnoff via Benito Juarez to La Magdalena the dirt road climbs a steep hill which is hazardous during rains. At the entrance of La Magdalena, the road splits, and if in doubt about which direction the illegible sign indicates, ask someone, otherwise you are on your way to Soteapan.

From La Magdalena the road crosses the proverbial hills and vales and arrives at Barossa on Mex 180, 15 miles south of Catemaco.

Catemaco via Coyame to Lopez Mateos, Miguel Hidalgo and Las Margaritas

Catemaco to Coyame is paved but badly potholed

a) Lopez Mateos - a rollercoaster dirt road leaves Coyame uphill.

b) Miguel Hidalgo - via paved road to Tebanca. The road then turns into badly maintained dirt, subject to flooding and hopefully arrives at a sign leading uphill to Lopez Mateos. It is a very pretty ride but not recommended when wet.

c) Las Margaritas via Tebanca - after the Lopez Mateos turnoff, keep going, stay right at the Benito Juarez turnoff and dead end at La Margaritas. Impassable during heavy rains.

Laguna Catemaco South Shore

The road begins off Mex 180 at La Victoria, 3 miles south of Catemaco, then turns to dirt to Pozolapan, Mimiahua and El Porvenir. It the dead ends because the road bridging the Tepeyaga peninsula before Las Margaritas has been studied and approved but has not been funded.

The El Porvenir stretch is only recommendable to high lift vehicles.

The Santa Marta Circuit Road

Catemaco to Tebanca is paved, then turns to dirt via the turnoff to Benito Juarez and La Magdalena to Soteapan. This stretch is called the "Brecha de Maiz" and has been funded to be paved in 2008. Near Soteapan there are many unmarked intersections and you will get lost if you do not ask for directions. From Soteapan to Acayucan and Mex 180, the road is paved for return to Catemaco.

The Santa Marta Coastal Road

At present this road is a pipe dream because it lacks a connection from Catemaco to Arrecifes.

Only a 4x4 should venture to cross via the barge at La Barra and the fording near El Carrizal, and several other rivers until Arrecifes.

From Arrecifes to Tatahuicapan the dirt road is under construction and some parts are paved.

a) From Tatahuicapan, a partially paved road runs via Pajapan to the unpaved section to Jicacal on the edge of Laguna del Ostion. A bridge from there to connect to Barillas is funded but construction is halted because of environmental concerns (Feb 2008). Crossing is only available via small boats. From Barillas to Coatzacoalcos, the road is paved.

b) The temporary (hopefully) bypass is from Tatahuicapan on pavement via Huazuntlan and Oteapan to Mex 180 south of Acayucan.

9. The Road from San Andres Tuxtla to La Nueva Victoria, via Ruiz Cortines.

The section to Ruiz Cortines is paved and a wonderful country drive, the section to near Los Organos and La Nueva Victoria is passable, but not recommendable. After Ruiz Cortines the road crosses a section of cloud forest with magnificent varieties of butterflies and flora.

Other touristically significant roads:

1, La Palma to La Barra Beach, via El Real, relaxing palapa seafood and beach community, terrrible condition, projected to be paved, 168,000 pesos already spent on just studying the project.

2, Catemaco -Coyame to Adolfo Lopez Mateos, minor community eco resort, uncomfortably passable dirt road.

3, Catemaco -Tebanca to Miguel Hidalgo.

Via beautiful Poza Azul and Poza Reina waterfalls. Passable dirt road - projected to be improved/paved.

4, Soteapan to Santa Martha

- 1200 m altitude, unfriendly villagers block access to trails in the gorgeous mountain surroundings - terrible road condition

5, Catemaco/Montepio Road to Playa Jicacal.

wonderful beach, uncomfortably passable road. same road to Playa Escondida, great views, monkeys and birds, nightmare condition.

6, Catemaco/Montepio Road to Balzapote,

historic port and beach, uncomfortably passable.

7, Mex 180, south of Catemaco, from Barossa to Santa Rosa Loma Larga Community Museum, barely passable.

11. A few of the dozens of other local roads worth sightseeing while preferably driving a 4×4:

1, Dos Amates to Ruiz Cortines, via Perla San Martin - great views, mountain air, horrible condition after recently being reworked.

2, Catemaco to Vista Hermosa, great views, bird watching, tall lookout mountain climbing steps without a view, horrible condition

3, Tebanca to El Bastonal via Rancho La Vikina, great views, birdwatching, horrible condition, supposedly under repair. This road used to lead into the Santa Marta and exit at the village of Santa Martha near Soteapan. That section is now impassable.

4, Mex 180, south of Catemaco, from Zapoapan de Cabañas to Dos Arroyos via El Aguila, one way, beautiful country, recently made passable. A shortcut to La Magdalena is available via El Aguila only for heavy duty 4×4’s.

5, Coyame to San Rafael, beautiful landscape, passable dirt road, recently improved to the cattle gates of a rich politician (2005). Formerly the road connected to Vista Hermosa and Peninsula de Moreno. Both are now dysfunctional.

6, Catemaco to Ruiz Cortines, via Cuauthemoc, great views of Cerro Mono Blanco and bird life, horrible road condition.

Catemaco Airports

View Larger Map

The two airports serving Catemaco are Veracruz and Minatitlan. At present both are about 3 hours drive from Catemaco. Car rental is available at both.

An airfield is under construction in San Andrés Tuxtla, but probably will not be in service for several more years.

On a direct route the Canticas airport is considerably closer to Catemaco and with decent roads would be accessible within 1 1/2 hours. At present access is only via Mex 180 via Acayucan and dependent on using the tollroad because the free road is usually choked with traffic, and takes almost 3 hours.

Several projects have been played with for many years to improve the situation.

1. Access via Soteapan
This is actually doable now, but only via dirt roads, and a long detour around Laguna Catemaco because the Tepeyaga peninsula still blocks fast access to Catemaco. Funding is in place to pave the "Brecha de Maiz", a road linking Soteapan to near Las Margaritas. The Tepeyaga link (from near Las Margaritas to Catemaco via Pozolapan is also approved but is in the usual nevernever land of Mexican politics.

2. Access via the coastal Highway
Another dream project has recently received new attention. At present there is no road connecting Catemaco to the southern coast from La Barra via Arrecifes to Tatahuicapan.
The dirt road from Arrecifes is now under construction and several miles have been paved. The stretch from Arrecifes to La Barra or Sontecomapan is basically a horse trail usable only by high lift vehicles preferably with 4x4 and equipped with a snorkel during rainy weather.

Stay tuned in 2015!

Catemaco to Tabasco

Knocking on some of the remaining wood in Los Tuxtlas, the local rainy season has been extraordinarily mild so far. North and south of here, the story has been different.

Much of the state of Tabasco is now flooded. The Cuota south, and the bypass for Villahermosa seem to be open. and the shortcut to Chiapas is so far unaffected.

Global warning is getting the blame for the rain. Students of history, though, will have noticed that prehistoric civilization of the area occurred mostly atop earthen platforms providing nice views and dry bedding.

Meanwhile more than 55,000 families are affected, and relief efforts are under way.

For each peso you send, these banks will add another one:

More photos:

Drive your U boat to Catemaco

As predicted, on an annual basis, the road south from Catemaco towards the Yucatan and Guatemala is today under 6 feet of water near Covarrubias, on the road towards Acayucan / Villahermosa.

Take the "cuota" to bypass Catemaco and catch us next time.

Happy Trails.

Update:
Road is open again. Come on down!