Oct 7, 2012

September 2012 - Catemaco

To keep this blog alive, I will publish a monthly update of beautiful downtown Catemaco and its surroundings.

Nothing of importance happened in September.

Because of some stupid event, supposedly promoting the adventure tourism of Catemaco and Los Tuxtlas, to which the governor but almost nobody from Catemaco was invited, the downtown of Catemaco miraculously cleaned up itself, disappearing almost all loud mouths screaming "lancha, lancha", painting anything that held still, either green or yellow, and constructing some fabled figurines and a boat dock for some political VIPS.


The road work on the Catemaco - Sontecomapan highway continues to be a fool's paradise. It amazes me how many workers and machines produce rubbish instead of a highway.

Progression of the the new commercial centers of Soriana and Coppel are zipping along at US speeds. Expect openings within the next two months. 

Another mickey mouse chain "Tienda Lores" also purchased an antique half a block in downtown Catemaco and expects to adds its cacaphony to the local environment, a la Doctor Zimi. Unfortunately, I live 2 lots away from them and I need new ear plugs..

Tourism is next to nil, as expected during this time of the year.

Rain has been surprisingly mild during the last few months. Despite a few storms, I expect Catemaco to present a relatively dry profile for the year. Remember that the higher altitudes report up to 15 feet of rain per year! One of the wettest places in the universe.

Amazingly, another two rip off offices of loan sharks opened in downtown. Where 5 years ago there were none, now there are a more than a dozen pawn shops and "personal" finance companies. And still only one bank with lines, at times, around the block!

Food has not improved. The Aurrera (Walmart) store maintained a freezer full of rotten ice cream for 2 weeks before anyone apparently noticed. The pizza in the "pizzeteria" has deteriorated. and the egg rolls in the new chinese joint are yesterdays.

I had some very nice lunches, as usual, in the Playa Cristal, La Finca, and some hole in the wall that apparently has no name. YET! My first venture to Valentino's on the Malecon was a bust because they "ran out of gas". And I am damn tired of the Coney Island Hot Dogs at Casa Lost. (I wish that beautiful joint would increase their menu). 

That is pretty much the attitude of local restauranteurs. (Here I will sneak in a recomendation for a rib eye steak proffered by the Fool on the Hill at Merendero's in San Andrès). Of course I know you all want typical Mexican food. I DO NOT! I like Texmex.

Catemaco's Malecon has actually reverted into a pleasant place to walk after dark, after the local government abided by the state law to prohibit drinking alcohol in public. Overnight, dozens of loudspeakers on wheels and hundreds of underage drinkers disappeared. Now the few rent paying joints are fighting for customers.

Oh yeah, a BIG TEXX  convienence store opened on the Malecon, Almost none of the conveniences of any self respecting 7/11, including the absence of 24 hour service.

The hole in the wall "Caballos" on the Malecon, after deservedly getting kicked out its premise below the basilica, is holding its own. Also, the offshore La Panga seems to attract customers. I have yet to go, because I still have to digest my opinion of its current lessee.

The gringo haven Tepetapan, after suffering a drought, is now again enjoying mostly full capacity of retirees pumping a few bucks into the local economy. 

There is nothing new on the beaches except for complaints about the roads on how to get there.

A recent article reported that 40% of the annual 15,000 visitors to the community museums of Santiago Tuxtla, Tres Zapotes and San Lorenzo were foreigners. Since I suspect that less than 2% of visitors to Los Tuxtlas are foreigners, that figure both indicates that most Mexicans prefer their heritage on TV or wherever, while gringos, or whatever, prefer to walk it.

More gringos would be welcome. 

Actually, anyone, wanting to spend more than 3 hours in Catemaco would be welcome (the average stay of a Mexican tourist). I can provide an itinerary of 7 or 365 days of  local adventures without getting bored!






Aug 22, 2012

Catemaco, the beautiful!

Yeah, I know Catemaco News is kinda dead! 
It is just so much more fun to publish junk in Fuckbook, duh, Facebook!
https://www.facebook.com/CatemacoNews


This is a local photographer who every once in a while gets off his ass and publishes stunning photos of Catemaco and Los Tuxtlas.
http://www.facebook.com/Catemaco.Fotos

Jul 3, 2012

Catemaco Walkabout


Those wonderful folks from DEMATAC, the Defenders of the Environment of Los Tuxtlas, have scheduled their annual exploration of the Catemaco wilderness for the 28th & 29th of July. Come along!

See their page:

May 22, 2012

Catemaco Crocodiles

Republished from January 2009,
because I saw a bunch of crocs at Nanciyaga the other day. But none on their menu.
Also saw a live one at Laguna Amolapan (see link below) and I have photos from visitors with some huge crocs around Las Margaritas.

As you lazily float on Laguna Catemaco on your way to visit monkey behinds, consider that there are crocodiles (Crocodylus moreletii)  in the lake. The last time anyone officially counted them, there were 5 in 2002.

Crocodile fat and oil is supposed to be a reliever of bronchial problems when rubbed over the neck and chest. Local healers say it works best when you catch your own croc. Crocodile tails are delicious when sauteed and taste somewhat like chicken.Guess why there are no more crocs in the laguna?

Nanciyaga, the ecological disney world of Los Tuxtlas, has a small crocodile breeding facility. Nobody knows what happens to the hatched eggs, because as said above, there only supposedly remain 5 swimming free.

The nearby Laguna Nixtamalapan supposedly was previously used as a crocodile experimental farm and had as many as 40 of these delicious critters. The same counter in 2002 reported 8 remaining, and rumors of a woman having been eaten. On a personal climb down to the laguna, I saw none, probably because a neighboring gravel mine has destroyed the lake's environment..

En 1995 Casas reporta 40 individuos para la laguna de Nixtamalapan Veracruz, una población de más de 20 individuos en el lago de Catemaco, y menciona que hay otras poblaciones no estimadas en Nanciyaga y Catemaco...Pérez-Higareda (1989) señala que en la Laguna de Nixtamalapan, Veracruz viven 36 cocodrilos de Morelet adultos (14 machos y 22 hembras), de los cuales 24 (14 machos y 10 hembras) ya se encontraban ahí, los 12 restantes se introdujeron en 1986 para balancear los sexos (1 macho por 2 hembras al menos), no se conoce el número de juveniles porque es difícil observarlos, al menos se sabe de 12. Gracias a ocho años de estudios por investigadores de la estación biológica tropical Los Tuxtlas, la laguna de Nixtmalapan en Veracruz de 4 has, es ahora una reserva natural para la protección, la cría y el estudio de los cocodrilos así como un ejemplo de conservación y ha creado entre la población una actitud de respeto hacia los cocodrilos (UNAM 1992). Conabio



a local croc delivered to Dematac to be released who knows where

A user, affectionally called "Fool on the Hill" made this comment:
Wrong!
Laguna Amolapan was used as an experimental croc farm, not Nixtamalapan. They screwed up, or did not know the correct name – common occurrence. I was there, dude. In ’86 – and after. I helped unload crocs. I loaned ‘em a canoe. They even had a f’ing sign. Don’t tell me, pinche gringo newcomer. They are also wrong for ’95; there were not 40 individuos then. Somebody doctored the books.

Also see: Laguna Amolapan in Spanish -

May 15, 2012

Catemaco's Carlos Fuentes


Carlos Fuentes, Mexico's Panama born author died today. 
His novel "The years with Laura Diaz" is partially set in Catemaco. His grandmother was born in Catemaco to a German/Mexican couple and his great aunt, Marìa Boettiger, also born in Catemaco, is the area's best known poet.

Read his obituary:
Read the book:




May 14, 2012

The Puntiagudo Cross in Catemaco



Looks like the Olmecs are back in Catemaco.
Without official support, appparently hundreds of local citizens are joining to construct a new cross atop Cerro Puntiagudo. 
You can see more photos and text in Spanish here: