Catemaco Roads

Catemaco is in the middle of nowhere.

22 hours from the border, 8 hours from Mexico City, 4 hours from Veracruz City. So a decision to vacation in Catemaco should obligate the local tourist industry to maximize its welcome of visitors and provide for their comfort. At present, the majority of visitors to Catemaco are tour bus day trippers, who combine a Catemaco stop with other stops, usually spend less than a day here, and have created a thriving public bathroom industry and sanitation department.

Catemaco and Los Tuxtlas are targeted by the Veracruz state government as a major tourism destination and, almost daily, a mention is made about one road or another that is being built, planned, repaired or paved. But tourists, both foreign and national, using their own cars, or dependent on bus transportation, are insulted by the deplorable lack or condition of access roads to Catemaco and Los Tuxtlas.

Only very adventurous tourists will leave the main highway, Mex 180, to enjoy the splendor of so many of the natural wonders of Los Tuxtlas which should result in a stay of several days in the region. Instead, after one night, most tourists drive north or south to spend their money in more accessible locations.

These reflections represent my experience of driving these roads since 2002, and represent data as of August 2006. Most roads are under the jurisdiction of SECOM, the Veracruz Department of Transportation. Ironically a former mayor of Catemaco unfortunately heads a large branch of that Department

MEX 180 - Mexican federal highway.

This road runs from the US border at Brownsville to Cancun and has done so for more than 50 years. The road was probably in better condition 50 years ago than it is now. The section from Veracruz to Catemaco is a consistent nightmare of pot holes, more than 50 topes, some of which are unmarked monsters, road repairs, washouts, and road obstructions. At any one time, some section is being painted black, which is the local equivalent of paving, and usually lasts less than a year. The section from Catemaco to Minatitlan/Coatzacoalcos is in similar condition.

Access to the Cuota - Toll Road near Catemaco.

The toll road that stretches from La Tinaja to near Villahermosa, aside from being outrageously expensive, is usually in good repair, but also prone to lack of maintenance, especially around the Minatitlan area. Access to Catemaco is via 2 exits.

a) MEX 179 near Isla to Santiago Tuxtla and then MEX 180 to Catemaco. This road at present is fair, after being a nightmare for more than 2 years.

b) A turnoff at Acayucan, then through terribly marked city roads to MEX 180. In one of those famous 5 year development plans for Los Tuxtlas, another access road from near Covarrubias to the Cuota was proposed but never pursued.

The San Martin Circuit Road and coastal highway,

This is a loop road leaving Mex 180 at El Tropico, passing along the Gulf via Montepio, then returning to 180 near Catemaco.

a) Section of Catemaco to Montepio:

The deplorable dirt road in place for more than 20 years, and probably promised to be paved for almost as long, was finally completed in 2007, includings outrageous topes near Sontecomapan, and a heavy collection of pot holes from Catemaco to Sontecomapan. Biologists from the UNAM Biological Station demanded that the section of road passing through their reserve be constructed in a natural manner. The result is probably the worst kilometer of constructed road in the world. Even the Aztecs built better roads from stone.

b) Section of Montepio to El Tropico:

This former dune & dirt trail with frightening river crossings is now completely paved and bridged. Expect potholes and lots of topes.

Eyipantla waterfall.

The road runs from Mex 180 at Sihuapan, near San Andrés Tuxtla, to Eypantla and continues to Covarrubias. The touristically important section to the waterfall, (4.5 km), is recently paved (2007).

Santiago Tuxtla to Tres Zapotes.

Turning from Mex 180 to MEX 179 at Santiago Tuxtla and then proceeding to unmarked Dos Caminos is ok. The touristically important section from the turnoff at Dos Caminos to Tres Zapotes (13.5 km) is another one of those once paved, but not maintained nightmares. It also is on the long promised list of roads to be repaired. Tres Zapotes holds an important Olmec museum and used to have a well attended equinox celebration.

The Laguna Catemaco circumference road

Unfortunately at present this road along the laguna is incomplete, but circumnavigation of the Laguna is only possible via La Magdalena and Barossa, turning a 50 kilometer trip into a 100 kilometer odyssey.

From Catemaco to Tebanca the road is paved, but heavily potholed in sections. From there, a badly eroded dirt road subject to flooding runs to the turnoff to Las Margaritas. From the turnoff via Benito Juarez to La Magdalena the dirt road climbs a steep hill which is hazardous during rains. At the entrance of La Magdalena, the road splits, and if in doubt about which direction the illegible sign indicates, ask someone, otherwise you are on your way to Soteapan.

From La Magdalena the road crosses the proverbial hills and vales and arrives at Barossa on Mex 180, 15 miles south of Catemaco.

Catemaco via Coyame to Lopez Mateos, Miguel Hidalgo and Las Margaritas

Catemaco to Coyame is paved but badly potholed

a) Lopez Mateos - a rollercoaster dirt road leaves Coyame uphill.

b) Miguel Hidalgo - via paved road to Tebanca. The road then turns into badly maintained dirt, subject to flooding and hopefully arrives at a sign leading uphill to Lopez Mateos. It is a very pretty ride but not recommended when wet.

c) Las Margaritas via Tebanca - after the Lopez Mateos turnoff, keep going, stay right at the Benito Juarez turnoff and dead end at La Margaritas. Impassable during heavy rains.

Laguna Catemaco South Shore

The road begins off Mex 180 at La Victoria, 3 miles south of Catemaco, then turns to dirt to Pozolapan, Mimiahua and El Porvenir. It the dead ends because the road bridging the Tepeyaga peninsula before Las Margaritas has been studied and approved but has not been funded.

The El Porvenir stretch is only recommendable to high lift vehicles.

The Santa Marta Circuit Road

Catemaco to Tebanca is paved, then turns to dirt via the turnoff to Benito Juarez and La Magdalena to Soteapan. This stretch is called the "Brecha de Maiz" and has been funded to be paved in 2008. Near Soteapan there are many unmarked intersections and you will get lost if you do not ask for directions. From Soteapan to Acayucan and Mex 180, the road is paved for return to Catemaco.

The Santa Marta Coastal Road

At present this road is a pipe dream because it lacks a connection from Catemaco to Arrecifes.

Only a 4x4 should venture to cross via the barge at La Barra and the fording near El Carrizal, and several other rivers until Arrecifes.

From Arrecifes to Tatahuicapan the dirt road is under construction and some parts are paved.

a) From Tatahuicapan, a partially paved road runs via Pajapan to the unpaved section to Jicacal on the edge of Laguna del Ostion. A bridge from there to connect to Barillas is funded but construction is halted because of environmental concerns (Feb 2008). Crossing is only available via small boats. From Barillas to Coatzacoalcos, the road is paved.

b) The temporary (hopefully) bypass is from Tatahuicapan on pavement via Huazuntlan and Oteapan to Mex 180 south of Acayucan.

9. The Road from San Andres Tuxtla to La Nueva Victoria, via Ruiz Cortines.

The section to Ruiz Cortines is paved and a wonderful country drive, the section to near Los Organos and La Nueva Victoria is passable, but not recommendable. After Ruiz Cortines the road crosses a section of cloud forest with magnificent varieties of butterflies and flora.

Other touristically significant roads:

1, La Palma to La Barra Beach, via El Real, relaxing palapa seafood and beach community, terrrible condition, projected to be paved, 168,000 pesos already spent on just studying the project.

2, Catemaco -Coyame to Adolfo Lopez Mateos, minor community eco resort, uncomfortably passable dirt road.

3, Catemaco -Tebanca to Miguel Hidalgo.

Via beautiful Poza Azul and Poza Reina waterfalls. Passable dirt road - projected to be improved/paved.

4, Soteapan to Santa Martha

- 1200 m altitude, unfriendly villagers block access to trails in the gorgeous mountain surroundings - terrible road condition

5, Catemaco/Montepio Road to Playa Jicacal.

wonderful beach, uncomfortably passable road. same road to Playa Escondida, great views, monkeys and birds, nightmare condition.

6, Catemaco/Montepio Road to Balzapote,

historic port and beach, uncomfortably passable.

7, Mex 180, south of Catemaco, from Barossa to Santa Rosa Loma Larga Community Museum, barely passable.

11. A few of the dozens of other local roads worth sightseeing while preferably driving a 4×4:

1, Dos Amates to Ruiz Cortines, via Perla San Martin - great views, mountain air, horrible condition after recently being reworked.

2, Catemaco to Vista Hermosa, great views, bird watching, tall lookout mountain climbing steps without a view, horrible condition

3, Tebanca to El Bastonal via Rancho La Vikina, great views, birdwatching, horrible condition, supposedly under repair. This road used to lead into the Santa Marta and exit at the village of Santa Martha near Soteapan. That section is now impassable.

4, Mex 180, south of Catemaco, from Zapoapan de Cabañas to Dos Arroyos via El Aguila, one way, beautiful country, recently made passable. A shortcut to La Magdalena is available via El Aguila only for heavy duty 4×4’s.

5, Coyame to San Rafael, beautiful landscape, passable dirt road, recently improved to the cattle gates of a rich politician (2005). Formerly the road connected to Vista Hermosa and Peninsula de Moreno. Both are now dysfunctional.

6, Catemaco to Ruiz Cortines, via Cuauthemoc, great views of Cerro Mono Blanco and bird life, horrible road condition.