Catemaco to the Yucatan

With haunts of the "south will rise again" southern Veracruz sugar cane farmers have successfully cut the only roads leading from the rest of Mexico to the Yucatan. After first blocking the bridge leading from Catemaco south to Acayucan/Villahermosa, they have now also blocked the cuoata (toll road) south of Acayucan.

This is a political gambit involving the payment of price supports to sugar mills. It is also a pain in the butt for anyone traveling these highways. Usually these common blockages last only a few hours, until the Veracruz governor sends in some sugar coated promises.

We recently round tripped the Yucatan from Catemaco to Villahermosa, Campeche, Merida, Tulum and Chetumal/Belize. Once you get the hell out of Veracruz, the roads are surprisingly good, only marred by long stretches of new road construction. Highways are very well marked and frequently give you a choice of different mileages to the next city. Speed controls are almost non existant and we often puffed along at 100 miles per hour.

Once out of the majorcities, you need to be a mind reader to know which turn to take. We proudly got lost trying to find Celestun, leaving Merida, short cutting from Chichen Itza and entering Tulum from the inland side. The worst nightmare was trying to leave downtown Chetumal.

All in all, we had a wonderful trip and the only pertinent advise is to NEVER ask a Mexican pedestrian for directions. Their usual sense of courtesy does not allow admitting they don´t know and instead they will fabricate some twists and turns to keep you happy. This is especially true in rural areas where the concept of roads is frequently presumed to include horse trails.

My Popoluca taught me the most pertinent trick. Hire a taxi to lead you where you are going! It works.
Photo: "My historic ruins" of Uxmal