Did you know that Mexico's most famous pyramids at Chichen Itza are actually privately owned and the Mexican government is having a hell of a time trying to turn them into a "patrimonio nacional".
"Patrimonio Nacional" is one of those famous catch words in Mexico. Basically it translates to national assets. This applies to lamp posts as well as pyramids. So if you crash into a post when leaving your favorite cantina you will likely be accused of having damaged "Patrimonio Nacional" and will go to jail, unless you carry big bucks or an insurance carrier with 24 hour service.
On the local level I am constantly surprised to learn that anything worthwhile seeing is actually in private hands or access is controlled by them.
Most notable are the red rock cliffs on the way to Catemaco. Many travel writers have erroneously described them as Olmec workshops, without knowing that the 100 or so owners of the ejido (co-op) of Angel R Cabada actually own them and make a fortune off the cliff's gravel, when roads are constructed anywhere near there.
The georgeous Eypantla Waterfall is actually a 50 year concession to the 102 ejidatarios of the nearby pueblo. Every entry fee from the up to 2000 visitors per day goes into their coffers, and unless the local government chips in, not one centavo is used to keep the tourist facilities in good state.
Poza Reyna (aka Poza Reina), a magnificent set of rapids and cascades along a river about 15 miles from Catemaco is definitely Patrimonio Nacional, in the sense that 5 meters along the side of a river's highest flood level is federal property. Instead, a super rich owner from San Andres collects 30 pesos per person to cross his private property to get to the river. He graciously provides an outdoor toilet and parking.
Cola de Caballos, a magnificent waterfall, featured in numerous commercials and publicity drivel about Los Tuxtlas, is another case. Access is through private property with up to 10 cattle gates or an obligatory hike through ejidal land that slithers down a dangerous precipice while collecting guide fees . Although federal and state sources are spending 10's of thousands of dollars to accomodate an ecotouristic project, apparently no pesos are available to provide a few steps and public access.
There are a dozens of similar locales in Los Tuxtlas. By the time I add all the nitpicking private fees within the so called Biosphere Reserve to the measly 20 pesos that the "vaunted" reserve keeps unsuccessfully trying to collect, a few days in Los Tuxtlas can financially mount up to a day in Disneyworld , Orlando.
Tht is not only true in Catemaco, but throughout Mexico.
