Jun 23, 2006

Catemaco Coxcoapan

My Popoluca partner recently talked me into buying some cheap cattle acreage along the Rio Coxcoapan, down hill from beautiful downtown Catemaco. She forgot to tell me that half of the 200 acres are innundated most of the year. So now I am studying Vietnamese rice plantations, growing fish in shallow ditches, water fowl hunting and drowned cattle resuscitation.

Meanwhile I chopped her land buying Visa card into tiny little shards. Coxcoapan sits along Rio Coxcoapan, off the Catemaco to Sontecomapan road, passing by Catemaco's "famous" hot spring "Agua Caliente" and potentially the town is the gateway to the part of Catemaco that the Catemaco government apparently does not even know exists.

Several dirt roads, impassable during the rainy season ford several rivers to cross into the Santa Marta foot hills and the isolated Gulf beaches near El Carrizal. Cattle ranchers happily use the isolated area to grow hamburgers and there are even rumors of wild cannabis.

The pueblo of Coxcoapan is the usual collection of tin roofed shacks and concrete government edifices. A riverside restaurant serves fresh fish if you honk loud enough about 3 miles before entering the village. A special treat are the giant shimps (Mayacates) allegedly caught in the river waters surrounding the village and priced at New York City fair market values.

If you bring your kayak, the Coxcoapan river will placidly flow you through cattle ranches and mangrove forests to the edge of Sontecomapan city. If you are really courageous, you can enter the river much higher up, near Peninsula de Moreno, and experience one of those death defying shallow river rides to hell.